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My approach to Chloé has always been intuitive: about feeling, emotion. This collection began, purely, with instinct–I have let all my obsessions for Chloé lead the way. I wanted something deeply personal–to return to things I love, the emotions they trigger in me. It felt liberating to work this way, to listen to the resonance of everything I feel for Chloé.
I wanted to explore Chloé archetypes, never stereotypes–rediscovering the nuances of their beauty in a new way. Chloé’s ‘robes de jeunes filles’ from the early years of the maison’s history were often crafted in broderie anglaise - their memories and feeling led me to explore its many possibilities. We precisely referenced 19th-century archival threadwork, translating it to fabrics ranging from the lightest of organzas to crisp, heavy cottons.
I was also obsessed by 1960s three-dimensional floral embroidery, an echo of Chloé’s rich history of prêt-à-porter expressed with couture-level savoir-faire. I wanted to use these embroideries to create depth, texture and complexity yet to express a sense of ease, of youthful esprit. A Chloé contradiction.
The silhouette was often built from the neckline down. Heart-shaped, bateau, square and V-necklines became a means of anchoring silhouettes–some consciously recall the history of the house, others are shapes I have always been attracted to.
Outerwear was another obsession–1970s shapes, inspired by fishermen’s coats and capes, sou’wester hats. Over these silhouettes, I layered transparent vinyl in smoky shades drawing on the rainwear of the 1950s, to create graphic and sharp silhouettes. The tailored 1972 ‘Noel’ suit, remembered from the archives, is a personal obsession, a garment and an image I will always love. This scallopededge tuxedo became the starting-point, for a reflection of that vision of women in men’s suiting that is equally an integral part of the Chloé heritage.
Talking of obsession is something innately intimate, something unique and individual. Lingerie has always been an obsession–I sliced away the lace of these fragile pieces, transforming them into romantic harnesses. They are graphic, yet barely there–like traces of the Chloé DNA that has always inspired and shaped my work here.
Obsessions and creative fixations, desires and attractions. This season, I was guided by my love for Chloé. This collection, I hope, is an expression of the maison’s heart, and soul. Forever Chloé.
Love,
Chemena
10/01/2026
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