Maison Chloé: the French fashion brand history

MAISON CHLOÉ

“All I’ve ever wanted was for Chloé to have a happy spirit, to make people happy.”

GABY AGHION

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Luxury with a conscience, or in other words, "honest luxury".

Michael Avedon

Gabriela Hearst — Creative Director

Gabriela Hearst joined the Maison as creative director for ready-to-wear, leather goods and accessories in December 2020.

Born in Uruguay, Gabriela Hearst honored her family’s heritage through the launch of her eponymous label in Fall 2015 after taking over the operations of her father’s ranch in Uruguay. She wanted to create a brand that reflects a slower pace and process: where things are made with care and detail, where tradition is more important than trend, where there is a purpose to every piece.

Gabriela’s commitment is to make a strong and modern collection without compromising her ethics and key values, taking into consideration where materials come from and who is making them: luxury with a conscience, or in other words, “honest luxury”. In 2018, Gabriela was appointed to the board of trustees of Save the Children. For the Spring Summer 2020 collection, shown in New York in September 2019, Gabriela Hearst produced the first ever carbon neutral runway show.

She is the winner of the 2016/17 International Woolmark Prize for Womenswear, 2018 recipient of the Pratt Institute Fashion Visionary Award, and 2020 recipient of the Frank Alvah Parsons Award. In 2020, she won the American Womenswear Designer of the Year Award at the CFDA Fashion Awards. The British Fashion Council awarded Gabriela as an Environment Honoree for her contribution in creating positive change within the industry at the 2020 Fashion Awards.

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800 METRES

of silk used for a runway collection

68 COLOURS

worked into a collection

3 SEAMSTRESSES

work on a single dress

30 YEARS

the tenure of our longest-standing ‘petite main’

200 HOURS

to make a bespoke, red-carpet dress

60 PEOPLE

in the Atelier pull together a runway collection

The beginning

Gabriella Hanoka is born in Alexandria, Egypt, into a cosmopolitan family. She marries her childhood friend Raymond Aghion in 1940 and, in 1945, the young couple move to Paris.

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1950s

“I designed a small collection and hired a skilled seamstress who had worked in haute couture. I went to source the buttons, the fabrics myself … I was sticking my neck out. Soon I was carried away; it was like a tornado!” — Gaby Aghion

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1952

Gaby Aghion designs her first collection and the story of Chloé, one of the first luxury ready-to-wear houses, begins. An alternative to the stiff formality of haute couture, Chloé offers an elegant and modern wardrobe with relaxed silhouettes in high-quality fabrics and refined details.

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1957

Gaby Aghion organises Chloé’s first fashion show for the Spring-Summer 1958 collection at the renowned artist’s haunt, Café de Flore. From then on and until the mid-1960s, Chloé’s youthful and spirited fashion shows are held at other Left Bank cafés, the same venues that were the backdrop to the counter-cultural revolution of the day.

“The Chloé show was held in the Closerie des Lilas, a famous literary café. The press sits around tables drinking café au lait ... while the models weave in and out of the tables.” — The New York Times

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1958

Gérard Pipart is the first young designer hired by Gaby Aghion. From 1958 onwards, the names of each of the Chloé garments follow the alphabet, a tradition that remains until 1987. It is re-introduced again with the accessories collection in 2012 by creative director Clare Waight Keller.

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1960s

“I have a gift for recognising talent in others.” — Gaby Aghion

As defined by founder Gaby Aghion, Chloé’s romantic, cool and glamorous designs personify the aspirations of young women and are met with huge success. In the 1960s, Gaby entrusts a new generation of young talents: Gérard Pipart, Maxime de La Falaise, Michèle Rosier, Graziella Fontana and Karl Lagerfeld, to carry on her vision. These personalities work alongside each other and blossom under Gaby Aghion’s artistic direction.

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1960

Gaby Aghion and Maxime de La Falaise design an iconic shirt-dress called, Embrun.

“Designing a dress like that, like a t-shirt, was very modern. This dress had a tremendous success because it said, ‘I am carefree’.” — Gaby Aghion

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1962

In the early 1960s, the iconic silk blouse is introduced. The style becomes an essential part of the Chloé wardrobe and attitude.

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1965

In 1965, a year after his arrival at Chloé, Karl Lagerfeld designs the Tertulia dress for Spring-Summer 1966. The hand-painted art nouveau-inspired motifs set the tone for Chloé’s elegant take on bohemian chic.

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1969

In the mid-1960s, Chloé introduces loose silk trousers that glide over the skin. These pants embody a new brand of relaxed elegance, and establish the on-going tension between the feminine and the masculine in the Chloé attitude.

Photograph by Guy Bourdin

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1970s

Karl Lagerfeld proves to be a prolific talent and emerges as Chloé’s sole designer during this period (from 1974 onwards). The 1970s is marked by his soft and flou silk dresses, which celebrate a feminine and carefree romanticism with delicate lace inserts.

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1972

The first Chloé boutique opens at the corner of rue du Bac and rue de Gribeauval, in Paris’s chic 7th arrondissement.

Photograph by Alexis Stroukoff

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1973

The Rachmaninoff dress, with its graphic black and white motifs and its matching scarf tied around the head, is a perfect example of the romantic, bohemian and nomadic ethos of the 1970s.

Photograph by Jean-Luce Huré

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1974

The 1970s are an ode to the Chloé cape. Endlessly re-interpreted throughout the decade, the cape embodies a sense of fluidity and freedom of movement — a signature of the Chloé style. For summer it reveals itself in whirls of light flyaway silk; in winter, when cast in soft wool, the cape asserts a feminine interpretation of a masculine wardrobe.

Photograph by Francois Lamy

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January 1975

Karl Lagerfeld becomes the exclusive designer at Chloé. He surrounds himself and Chloé with a clique of glamorous and talented friends, including fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez and models Pat Cleveland and Donna Jordan. Together, the nightclub darlings of New York light up Paris with their joie de vivre.

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April 1975

The first Chloé fragrance is launched. The floral, feminine scent becomes one of the most popular scents of its time.

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1980s

In the early 1980s, fashion became a playground where inspiration could be found almost anywhere. Collections are designed around a major theme and brought to life in spectacular runway shows. Models dance and pirouette down the runway, making every event as much a party as a show.

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1982

For Spring-Summer 1983 Karl Lagerfeld is inspired by music. He designs the famous Angkor dress, embroidered with a trompe l’œil violin and close friend, Antonio Lopez, reinterprets this playful design with a vibrant watercolour illustration.

Illustration by Antonio Lopez

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1983

For Spring-Summer 1984, Karl Lagerfeld designs the Ciseaux dress, embroidered with a trompe l’œil scissors. This collection on the theme of sewing ends the double decade of his first long and fertile collaboration with the house.

Photograph by Guy Marineau

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1987

Following Karl Lagerfeld’s departure and a quick succession of other designers, Martine Sitbon is appointed head designer of the Maison. Her five-year tenure introduces a play on soft femininity featuring references to historical menswear and the glossy world of cabaret.

Photograph by Francois Halard

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1990s

Karl Lagerfeld returns to Chloé in 1992. Over the next few years, he mines various cultural references, from classical to pop culture, and celebrates a feminine and carefree romanticism. His spirited collections are brought to life by the famous 1990s supermodels whose larger-than-life personas defined this era.

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1993

The Spring-Summer 1994 collection is ethereal and romantic: diaphanous tulle dresses are hand-painted with motifs inspired by archaeological frescoes from the Greek island of Santorini.

Photograph by Guy Marineau

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1995

The Spring-Summer 1996 collection revives the pop and playful spirit of the Maison.

Photograph by Guy Marineau

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1997

Stella McCartney is named creative director. Fresh out of Central Saint Martins, at the tender age of 25 she becomes the Maison’s youngest ever recruit.

Photograph by Mary McCartney

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1998

Under Stella McCartney, Chloé embraces a new sexier, rock ’n’ roll attitude featuring a romantic yet streetwise mix of vintage lingerie, sharp tailoring, signature low-rise pants and printed t-shirts.

Photograph by Vanina Sorrenti

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1999

Stella McCartney brings a youthful cheekiness and glamour to the Maison; her collections reveal an eclectic mix of influences covering everything from Brit Pop, Girl Power and Saville Row. The Maison welcomes a new, insatiable generation of Chloé fans.

Photograph by Liz Collins

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2000s

Throughout this decade, three young female British designers, Stella McCartney, Phoebe Philo and Hannah MacGibbon, succeed one another in the role of Creative Director. Capitalising on this newfound energy, the Maison broadens its horizons with the launch of accessories, including bags, small leather goods and shoes, along with new sister line, See By Chloé.

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2001

Stella McCartney leaves Chloé in 2001 and her right hand and close friend Phoebe Philo succeeds her in the role of creative director.

Photograph by David Sims

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2005

With Philo’s arrival, the Maison starts to work with leather goods and in Spring 2005, Chloé releases the Paddington bag. With its oversized proportions, XXL padlock and ‘luggage’ spirit, the fashion industry’s very first ‘It bag’ is born.

Photograph by Inez & Vinoodh

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March 2006

Chloé introduces wedges. The effortless attitude and refined sensibility of these shoes evoke the 1970s allure of the Maison. They go on to define Chloé’s footwear offering for seasons to come.

Photograph by Inez & Vinoodh

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August 2006

Under Phoebe Philo’s artful and audacious execution, a highly covetable modern wardrobe is born. Faithful to the spirit of the brand, sexy daywear and sheer silk dresses are contrasted with masculine tailoring, for a polished yet street-smart look.

Photograph by Inez & Vinoodh

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2008

In 2008, after Swedish designer Paulo Melim Andersson’s brief stint at the Maison, Hannah MacGibbon is named creative director.

Photograph by Paola Kudacki

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2009

Hannah MacGibbon’s tenure brings pure polish and sophistication to the forefront of the Chloé story. Her collections exude a confidence and a radiant softness, particular to the mood of the 1970s, which has long been a defining referential decade for Chloé’s creative directors.

Photograph by Mikael Jansson

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2010s

The start of this decade is marked by the arrival of Clare Waight Keller. Under her watch, the Maison’s allure is modernised even further as collections embrace sophisticated comfort and free-spirited ease – attitudes that never fail to seduce. New iconic accessories are also introduced, with the Drew and the Faye joining the Marcie in the line-up of Chloé Classics.

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2010

Chloé introduces the Marcie. An iconic day bag, the Marcie’s round feminine shape conveys a nomadic spirit.

Photograph by Angelo Pennetta

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August 2011

Chloé’s creative director Clare Waight Keller joins the Maison in 2011.

Photograph by Theo Wenner

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October 2011

Clare Waight Keller’s debut collection captured the very soul of Chloé: fluid and feminine, yet ‘boyish’; it sets the tone for seasons to come.

Photograph by Glen Luchford

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2012

The Maison celebrates its 60th anniversary with the ‘Chloé Attitudes’ exhibition at the Palais de Tokyo, and an accompanying coffee table book.

Photograph by Patrick Demarchelier

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2013

Chloé reveals the Drew with the Fall 2014 collection and it emerges as a true icon, embodying the glamorous 1970s spirit that is an intrinsic part of Chloé’s heritage.

Photograph by Angelo Pennetta

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2014

The Faye, a refined and elegant day bag, with laid-back appeal arrives with the Spring-Summer 2015 collection.

Photograph by Theo Wenner

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2014

Clare Waight Keller’s Spring-Summer 2015 collection is heralded as a turning point for the designer – “When all the elements of what I’d been doing came together,” she told vogue.com. Mixing the art of the flou alongside the nonchalance of downtown denim, the collection is met with both commercial and critical acclaim.

Photograph by Etienne Tordoir

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March 2016

Fall-Winter 2016 sees Clare Waight Keller reveal a tougher side to the Chloé girl. Inspired by the adventure of life on the open road, leather motorcycle trousers and trim jackets with contoured racing stripes feature in the collection.

Photograph by Etienne Tordoir

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July 2016

The Maison launches e-commerce.

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2017

Chloé announces the appointment of Natacha Ramsay-Levi as creative director for ready-to-wear, leather goods and accessories.

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2020

Chloé announces the appointment of Gabriela Hearst as creative director for ready-to-wear, leather goods and accessories.

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The beginning

1950s

1952

1957

1958

1960s

1960

1962

1965

1969

1970s

1972

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1974

January 1975

April 1975

1980s

1982

1983

1987

1990s

1993

1995

1997

1998

1999

2000s

2001

2005

March 2006

August 2006

2008

2009

2010s

2010

August 2011

October 2011

2012

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2014

March 2016

July 2016

2017

2020

the beginning
1950s
1960s
1970s
1980s
1990s
2000s
2010s
today

Photograph by Guy Bourdin

Illustration by Antonio Lopez

Photograph by Patrick Demarchelier

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A is for Artistic

Since Gaby Aghion founded Chloé in the 1950s within the artistic circles of the Left Bank, the Maison has attracted creative spirits, artists and innovators alike. Gaby set out to establish the brand as a hothouse for young talent and fresh ideas, paving the way for the talented designers and collaborators who have shaped Chloé’s identity over the decades.

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Chloé

Photo by Etienne Tordoir

Photograph by Morgan O'Donovan

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B is for Boyish

Timeless tailoring and boyish elegance remain at the core of Chloé, often in balance with boundless femininity. The dichotomy between the two styles exists in perfect harmony in the Chloé universe, and such tomboyish tendencies add an air of nonchalance.

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Chloé

Photograph by Juan Ramos

Photograph by Liz Collins

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C is for Confident

Full of life and empowerment, Chloé has always embodied an air of confidence and independence. Founder Gaby Aghion was a visionary, a pioneer of ready-to-wear who designed clothes for women with active, modern lifestyles, much like herself.

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Photograph by David Hamilton

Photograph by Robert Fairer

Photograph by Morgan O'Donovan

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D is for Delicate

Chloé’s fluid gowns, diaphanous blouses, and ethereal lace are all synonymous with lightness and grace, the very feminine attributes at the heart of the Maison. Girlish yet sophisticated, nothing lights up a room like a woman in a Chloé flou dress.

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Photograph by David Sims

Photograph by Robert Fairer

Chloé

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E is for Effortless

Chloé illuminates women with a particular way of being in the world: one that is authentic, that doesn’t need to be artificially dressed up or a canvas for other people’s ideas. Garments are chosen and worn with a sure sense of elegance and a casual air of confidence.

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Photograph by Guy Bourdin

Photograph by Inez & Vinoodh

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F is for Feminine

There is surely no other Maison more synonymous with femininity than Chloé. From the delicate lace dresses to the floor-length flou gowns, these captivating garments are designed by women, for women. But beyond the clothes we wear, Chloé embodies sisterhood and female empowerment with its all-inclusive club, #chloeGIRLS.

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Photograph by Jean -Luce Huré

Photograph by David Sims

Getty Images

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G is for Grace

Chloé girls possess natural allure and poise. Rather than commanding the spotlight, these women personify an understated elegance. An innate sense of style and ease seduces all those around her.

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Photograph by Liz Collins

Photograph by Morgan O'Donovan

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H is for Happy

"All I ever wanted," Gaby Aghion once said, "was for Chloé to have a happy spirit and to make people happy." Ever since, warmth, light and positivity have influenced everything the Maison does: from the upbeat runway shows, to the lively after parties, and the lightness and calm of our boutiques.

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Chloé

Photograph by George Harvey

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I is for Independent

"I lived the life I wanted to. I always wanted to remain independent so I went for it. I had incredible faith and boldness," said Gaby Aghion on Chloé’s defining spirit of independence. It’s there in the singular design and attitude of each garment that is, in turn, embodied by Chloé girls the world over.

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Photograph by Jean-Luce Huré

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J is for Joyful

In the late 1970s and early 1980s, the models on Chloé’s runway would dance and pirouette, bringing lightness, positivity and playfulness to every show. That is the Chloé mind-set: happy, liberated, and confident. In France, moments like this evoke joyeux – or “joy”. The word simply means to be happy, to smile, laugh – all part of the Chloé spirit.

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Photograph by Inez & Vinoodh

Photograph by George Harvey

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K is for Kaleidoscopic

The Chloé palette eschews searing bright colours: it is subtle – brimming with warm pastel shades, and subtle variations. Spanning a spectrum that runs from Chloé’s iconic beige rosé to pure white and cream, along with coral pink, slate grey, ice blue, vanilla yellow and mint green, and gold.

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Photograph by Horst Diekgerdes

Chloé

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L is for Light

Think of a ray of sunlight coming through the blinds on a summer’s day; the Mediterranean light bouncing off the sea; the colour of the pyramids in Gaby Aghion’s Egypt; and the colour of sun-warmed skin. A symbol of femininity and beauty in its natural state, light is at the heart of Chloé. Caressed with the warmth of natural light, the Chloé woman feels free.

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Chloé

Photograph by Glen Luchford

Photograph by George Harvey

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M is for Modern

The strength of the modern woman lies in the ability to be self-defining: to decide one’s own values, tastes and desires. This mood has always been at the heart of the Maison’s DNA, ever since Gaby Aghion pioneered prêt-à-porter with her unpretentious, contemporary designs and independent spirit.

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Photograph by Inez & Vinoodh

Photograph by David Sims

Photograph by Morgan O'Donovan

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N is for Natural

With her flyaway locks, healthy glow and bright-eyed allure, the Chloé woman is a natural, effortless beauty. She dresses to accentuate her allure in a chic, timeless way. It’s not about dressing up: clothes are a delight to express herself, not to please others.

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Photograph by David Sims

Photograph by Theo Wenner

Photograph by George Harvey

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O is for Optimistic

The Chloé woman is light-hearted, smiling, and youthful. This is reflected in the light, sandy shades used in Chloé collections, the light touch that Chloé takes to fashion, and the sense of spontaneity the brand embodies.

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Chloé

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P is for Parisian

Paris, and the nonchalance of the Parisian woman, has always been the star of the Chloé story. During Gaby Aghion’s era, Paris was a centre for bohemian, intellectual culture with young beatniks gathering on the Left Bank and Chloé was perfect in sync with that Parisian mood – youthful and modern in design, rebellious in spirit. Today the city of light remains the fashion capital of the world and the Maison rests in the heart of it all.

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Photograph by Albert Watson

Photography by Guy Marineau

Photograph by Xevi Muntane

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Q is for Quirky

Whimsical motifs and pop culture references inject a hint of irreverence and playful provocation into each Chloé collection. This art for the unexpected can be found everywhere: from the design details on the bags – a hand-tied knot in the strap and the play between different hardware accents – to the flyaway tassels adorning silk dresses and blouses.

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Getty Images

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R is for Rock

Music sets the scene in the Chloé world, from the straining riffs of a guitar at an after party, to the feel-good soundtracks on the runway. The sounds you hear affect your mood, your thoughts – and the way you move. Our love of music is also evidenced from the inspiring line-up of musicians we support: artists like Flo Morrissey, Marianne Faithful, Florence and the Machine, and Haim.

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Photograph by Inez & Vinoodh

Photograph by David Sims

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S is for Spontaneous

Chloe’s air of spontaneity can be found in the easy silhouettes of the garments and the carefree attitude of the women wearing them. Designed to fit into the Chloé woman’s lifestyle – she’s always on the go – the look is never over thought, always nonchalant and relaxed.

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Photograph by François Halard

Photograph by Etienne Tordoir

Photograph by Theo Wenner

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T is for Timeless

Eschewing trends for timelessly chic essentials, the Chloé icons – the blouse, the cape, the wide-leg trouser and the wedge – are updated every season in an enduringly elegant manner. At its heart, elegance is about attitude and poise, but an exquisitely cut garment never fails to seduce.

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Photograph by Etienne Tordoir

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U is for Unique

Whatever the style – be it the popular Drew bag, a silk blouse, or a piece of classic denim – a Chloé garment is distinctly unique. It’s reflected in the attitude, the colour palette, the easy silhouette, and the confident gait of the woman who is wearing it.

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Photograph by Jean-Luce Huré

Photograph by Timur Emek

Photograph by George Harvey

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V is for Vibrant

Chloé girls love life. They embody and celebrate the richness and vitality of all it has to offer. They choose a wardrobe that both flatters and empowers, clothes that come alive in vivid prints, in alluring colours and luxurious fabrics that encase the figure.

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Photograph by Christian Anwander

Photograph by Guy Bourdin

Chloé

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W is for Wild

The call of the wild plays a part in the Chloé design DNA. Never brash, always elegant, Chloé girls love irreverent details and wear them with a confident and often adventurous spirit.

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Photograph by Inez & Vinoodh

Chloé

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X is for Kiss

In line with the embracing attitude of the Maison, at Chloé we always end our correspondence with a kiss. In turn, the ‘X’ has become a signature sign off from our #chloeGIRLS.

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Photograph by Jeanloup Sieff

Photograph by Melodie McDaniel

Photograph by George Harvey

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Y is for Youthful

Chloé is about keeping the carefree spirit of youth – whatever your age. Age, after all, is just a number – style lives forever. Chloé has always looked out for the young, the new, and the fresh. While the rest of fashion was catering to women of a certain age, founder Gaby Aghion wanted to appeal to all women who entertained a youthful, creative and free-spirit – women just like her.

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Photograph by Mikael Jansson

Photograph by Ola Rindal

Photograph by David Bellemere

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Z is for Zen

Calm and self-assured, the Chloé girl doesn't vie for attention. At peace with her independent spirit, she stands apart from the rest.

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